The Prada Effect: How It Stifled Diversity in Fashion
What is the Prada effect, and how did it impact diversity in the modeling industry during the 2000s? To understand this phenomenon, we must first examine the gender demographic imbalance in Eastern Europe caused by the heavy male losses of WWII. This imbalance led to cultural norms that emphasized beauty, fashion, and makeup, as women faced increased competition to find husbands. When the Soviet Union collapsed, Eastern markets opened to Western goods, transforming the modeling industry. Eastern European women, known for their uniform features, height, and refined makeup skills, became highly sought after by major agencies. The lack of diverse fashion under Soviet rule further reinforced their distinct appeal, giving them a competitive edge over Western models in the 1990s and 2000s.
Miuccia Prada played a pivotal role in shaping beauty standards in the late 1990s, just as diversity was beginning to emerge. However, Prada was not fond of shifting power dynamics. With supermodels like Naomi Campbell, Shalom Harlow, and Claudia Schiffer commanding attention, Prada believed the focus should be on the designer rather than the models. To regain control, she sought uniformity in her models—favoring consistency in height, weight, and walk to emphasize the clothing over the individual.
This shift had a significant consequence: the gradual exclusion of Black models from Prada’s shows. Aside from Naomi Campbell, who was already a supermodel, Prada did not feature any Black models for several seasons. Even Campbell’s inclusion seemed more like an exception due to her status rather than a genuine embrace of diversity. Prada’s decisions had a ripple effect across the industry. Brands like Calvin Klein and Jil Sander followed suit, contributing to what is now known as the "Prada effect," which significantly reduced the already minimal diversity in fashion during the early 2000s.
During this period, the industry became overwhelmingly dominated by white models, pushing diversity aside. However, the tide eventually turned. Emerging designers from diverse backgrounds began gaining prominence, reshaping industry standards. Designers like Chung Thanh Phong from Vietnam, Robert Wun from Hong Kong, Elie Saab from Lebanon, and KidSuper from New York introduced fresh perspectives, highlighting models from East Asia, the Middle East, and Black communities.Over time, diversity in fashion evolved from a fleeting trend into a lasting movement. While the Prada effect temporarily suppressed representation, the industry has since made strides toward inclusivity. Today, fashion is more diverse than ever, though the journey toward true equality continues.
